Thursday, December 27, 2007

Christmas and Tabaski

Merry Christmas!!

I’m just getting home from spending Christmas at the beach with a group of other volunteers from my region. It was definitely a little atypical to say the least, and it didn’t really feel like Christmas. But it was nice to spend the holiday with other volunteers and have a few days to relax in our rented beach house with Christmas music blaring from the stereo nonstop. For Christmas dinner, we rented out a restaurant that is right on the beach and had a great Senegalese chicken dish with chocolate cake for dessert.

Right before Christmas was the Muslim holiday Eid-al Kebir, known in Senegal as Tabaski. This holiday celebrates the day that the prophet Abraham sacrificed his son for Allah and was quickly rewarded with a ram for his faithfulness. This is one of the big two Muslim holidays (the other is Eid-al Fitr, which marks the end of Ramadan) and every Muslim household kills a sheep the morning of the holiday in remembrance of Abraham. For the rest of the day, it’s a feast of epic proportions. After going to the Mosque in the morning, the men come home, kill the sheep in the yard, then skin it and clean it. This was a little shocking to watch as blood and entrails ended up everywhere. Everyone kept trying to get me to kill one of our sheep (we had three) especially after they found out I had never killed or even seen an animal get slaughtered in the United States. This led to an explanation of how Americans purchase meat which blew some of my family’s minds. I was able to get out of killing it by promising to help more next year so we’ll see what happens then.

After butchering the sheep, the women start grilling the meat for lunch and we ate a huge lunch of sheep covered in a mustard and onion sauce with French fries. After eating lunch at my family’s compound, I went next door to my extended family’s compound where I ate the same lunch again. During the afternoon, everyone lazes around in a food coma - drinking tea and visiting with family. For dinner, we ate another giant meal of sheep in a heavy sauce with bread. After dinner, everyone goes out and visits friends and family into the early morning.

We followed the same schedule the following day: eating massive amounts of sheep (which at this point expanded to include the stomach, intestines, and feet), visiting friends and family and relaxing around the compound. For the entire holiday, everyone wears traditional clothing – men wear long, brightly colored gowns and women wear very elaborate dresses or skirts with matching shirts. Women also put henna on their hands and feet and braid extensions into their hair.

I hope all of you are well and had a Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year. I miss you all.

Chris

Friday, December 7, 2007

These past few weeks I have continued to meet more and more people and visit different organizations that I can potentially work with. I’m flooded with new information about people, my town, Senegal, and everything else imaginable ranging from traditional medicine to the proper way to make Senegalese tea.

I have also started Wolof tutoring with a teacher at the vocational school for girls. Neither of us really know how to go about teaching a language that is largely a spoken language, it was only put into writing 20 years ago or so (nobody here writes in it). But, we plug away at it and I think I am beginning to make some progress, slowly but surely.

My tutor shares a house with several other teachers – teachers are placed in schools by the state and consequently don’t necessarily work in their hometowns. So they live in faculty housing which is a lot like a college apartment. I’m becoming friends with the teachers in her house and am spending more and more time there, which has been great. They are all very engaging, easy to talk to, and are patient with any language barriers we encounter.

Also, feeling the need to start doing something more tangible, I’ve started helping my tutor with one of her English classes at the school. Yesterday was my second day of class and all of the girls choose English names for the class. They were all very excited to have English names and kept on saying “my name is ____” and then giggle uncontrollably. The style of class is so different than American classes. It is solely based on repetition so I’m not sure how much the girls are retaining or comprehending, but it’s too soon to judge.

Finally, this past weekend I went to a village about 30 km south of me to meet with an NGO and several women’s groups that want to start selling vegetables at a local market. To get down there, I was told there was a mini-bus that left from Nioro every afternoon. After waiting at the garage for several hours and seeing no sign of the bus, I began to ask around and finally another car headed in that direction showed up. I don’t know what kind of car it was but probably about the size of a Ford Escape and designed to hold 6 people. When all was said and through, we were tumbling down the road with 15 people in the car and a live goat tied to the roof.

Once I got to the village, a volunteer there told me about a huge, weekly party that happened to be that night. It didn’t begin until a little after midnight, but there were people from all of the surrounding villages. People were dancing to a group of drummers and there were two commentators with microphones announcing who was arriving (in the same way that announcers work the red carpet before a large film premiere). The announcers immediately took a keen interest in the two Americans at the party and conducted a 20 minute interview with us, which ended by them saying “You have everything you want here: dancing, food, Americans.” The party is actually more of a giant wrestling competition in which each of the villages selects a representative for the event. The wrestlers then compete in a round-robin tournament through the night. The wrestling was occasionally interrupted by kids sprinting through the ring with flaming torches and other events. I can’t really say that I understood everything that happened there, but it was definitely amusing.

All in all, things are going well here and I am beginning to feel more comfortable with the town, my family and my activities. I hope you are all well.

love
Chris

Thursday, November 22, 2007

finally at site

I don’t even know where to begin – so much has happened in the past week. I finally got to my site last Thursday afternoon. After I finished unloading all of my stuff from the Peace Corps car, the staff returned to Kaolack, leaving me at my new home. My father and 12 year old host brother are the only two people in my family who speak French and neither of them were there for my installation. Consequently, communication with my host mother and my 10 and 2 year old sisters was limited to pointing and gesturing.

I was completely overwhelmed while I was unpacking – it seemed like my family and all of the neighbors piled into my room and dug through my bags – picking out things they liked, admiring themselves in my mirror and asking me what different things were. After about an hour, everyone left (the majority of the kids stayed in the doorway to watch me) and I was able to begin to unpack and arrange my stuff. Several times during these first few hours I questioned what exactly I was doing here again – but these thoughts were spelled by my excitement to begin to get settled and adjust to my new life here.

The next morning I forced myself, somewhat reluctantly, to go wander and begin to get a feel for the town and start meeting and introducing myself to people. The first morning was easily the most conspicuous I have felt in my life. Kids came flocking from every compound screaming “Toubab” (Wolof for foreigner/white person) wanting to shake my hand and ask me for gifts, which ranged from my sandals to one little girl asking me for my hair.

With everyone I passed, I used the little bit of Wolof greetings that I learned in Thies. I was able to then switch to French with most people I talked with. In general, people have been extremely interested in why I am here (I am repeatedly asked why I would want to leave America to come to Africa) and what my role is as a Peace Corps volunteer.

I’ve continued this routine each morning – trying to go to a new part of town to meet and see new things. I come back home and eat lunch with my family and then rest for a while. Pretty much the entire country takes a siesta in the early afternoon to try to escape the heat. After my daily nap, which I am adjusting to quite well, I recruit the neighborhood kids to teach me Wolof. It typically involves me pointing to something or mimicking some action to learn new vocabulary. Additionally, I will meet with a teacher from the high school twice to week to learn the grammar and have a little more formal practice.

All in all, things are going pretty well here. I will write more as soon as I can. There isn’t internet in Nioro yet, although its rumored to be on its way (this of course could take anywhere from a week or two to three or four months) so I need to come to Kaolack for it, which is about 30 miles north of me – but takes about an hour and half by car to give you some indication of how bad the road is.

Anyway, Happy Thanksgiving to all – all the volunteers in my region rented out a restaurant that is owned by an ex-pat, and she is preparing us a giant Thanksgiving feast with all the fixings. It should be good.

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Off to site

Tomorrow I finally I get installed in my site – after so much waiting its hard to believe that its finally here. I started the application process for the Peace Corps nearly 14 months ago and after months of waiting, interviews, waiting, medical appointments, waiting, and training I am now ready to go to site.
The last few weeks of training were an absolute whirlwind with so much going on in preparation for our departure. We had a two-day workshop with our site counterparts and supervisors which gave us an opportunity to meet people from our sites and have some expectations of what type of work I will be doing. I really liked both of my counterparts – one has worked with several Peace Corps volunteers in the past while the other never has. They both work for different development organizations in my site. One is a Senegalese government development agency and the other is a NGO that receives funding from the UN. Each organization conducts trainings and offers counseling for small businesses and entrepreneurs and I will assist them with these projects. It was great to meet with them and learn more about Nioro, but the whole experience felt like a really important blind date.
Last Friday we had our swearing-in ceremony at the US Ambassador’s residence in Dakar. The ceremony was essentially a graduation as representatives of both the US and Senegalese government gave speeches and we all received our formal invitations from our sites. In lieu of caps and gowns, all of the trainees wore traditional Senegalese clothing. The ceremony was also filmed on the national tv channel and a few people have already stopped me to tell me they saw me on the news. I guess I’m now kind of a big deal.
After swearing-in, I packed up all of my stuff from my house in Thies and took a station wagon taxi with two other volunteers from Thies to Kaolack. The car was overflowing with bags, medical supplies, water filters, a few small trees (one of the other volunteers bought them to bring to her site) and there were three bikes strapped to the roof.
I have spent the past week at a Peace Corps regional house in Kaolack exploring town, setting up a post office box, and buying even more things I will need for my site – a propane stove, a trunk, a fan, gifts for my new family and plenty of other small knick-knacks I will need for my house. From here, Peace Corps Officials take us one at a time to our sites to officially install us and drop us off with our families.
I am very excited to get to site tomorrow, but I think that Friday (my first full day at site) might be one of the longest days of my life. I hope you are all doing well – I miss you all.

Chris

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

my new address

Hi all,

Sorry i haven't written in a while but the last few weeks have been absolutely crazy with so much going on and getting ready to leave for my site. I have been in Kaolack for the past couple days buying everything i will need for my house and I am getting installed Thursday afternoon. I don't have much time right now but i will write more tomorrow with stories from the past few weeks. I did however want to tell you all my new address:

Chris Andrews
B.P. 496
Kaolack, Senegal
West Africa

Hope you are all doing well

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Pictures!!


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Sorry i didn't add more but the connection is really slow - i'll put more on facebook

pictures

For some reason i can't get the pictures to load today but i will try again later this week. Sorry

almost to my home for the next 2 years

Hi friends and family,

Sorry it has taken me so long to post another message. Training continues to be extremely long, but it is almost finished. It’s a little crazy to think that in less than three weeks I will be living on my own in Senegal. I found out my site last week – I am going to Nioro, which is a small city 50 km south of Kaolack and 25 km north of the Gambia. Its population is about 17,000 people, but I guess I can buy all of the essentials (ranging from cereal to toilet paper) there. I will be the 5th volunteer in the town so hopefully it is already well adjusted to the presence of a Peace Corps volunteer there and I won’t need to explain why I would ever want to leave the comforts of life in America to live in Senegal. It is also the departmental capital so all of the state development organizations have offices there, hopefully meaning that I will have plenty of work to do.

This past weekend, all of the new volunteers rented a house on a beach about 40 km from Thies and took a much needed day of relaxation. After class Saturday morning, 35 of us somehow piled into a rented bus (actually about the size of a 15 passenger van) and headed to the beach. After a very bumpy and cozy ride, we made it to the house and spent the night and the following day there. It was so nice to have a whole day where my head wasn’t hurting from thinking in French or feeling like I was constantly on call with my host family. And even though the majority of us had to sleep on the floor, arm chairs, or the beach it was definitely worth it. I’ve attached a few pictures from the weekend.

Two weeks ago Ramadan ended which was great for me on many different levels. First, and probably most importantly, the Mosque that is directly across the street from my house has stopped broadcasting prayers through the night and now only calls for the 5 daily prayers. Also, everyone has a lot more energy and is a lot friendlier now that they are no longer fasting. During Ramadan, to compensate for not eating or drinking all day people would sit in the shade and nap for the whole day and the majority of businesses shut down or at least have limited hours. Now everyone is much more active and lively. The celebration at the end of Ramadan is called Korite and is essentially a day of non-stop eating. Everyone gives food to their neighbors in the morning and the rest of the day is spent eating it. Despite living with a Catholic family, all of our neighbors and family friends still brought us food. It’s amazing how religiously tolerant and accepting people are here.

I hope you are all doing well. I miss you all. Also, if you are thinking of writing me a letter or sending a package hold off for a few weeks until I get my new address at my site.

Sunday, October 7, 2007

my first month in senegal

Dear friends and family,

Sorry it has taken me so long to post any updates on my first month in Senegal, but I have been incredibly busy settling in and adjusting to life here (and to Senegalese time where nothing happens all too quickly) It’s hard to believe that I have only been in country for a little more than 3 weeks – it feels like I have already been here for months.

Wow, where to begin – so much has happened already. When we first got to country we spent two days at the training center and then we all left in pairs to go and stay with a current volunteer at his/her site for 5 days. There was some confusion in what town I was supposed to meet my volunteer and I ended up getting dropped off in a random town with the only instructions to sit on the curb of the road and wait for my volunteer to come and pick me up. So there we were, probably the only two white people in the city, sitting on the side of the road of some random place with no language skills, cell phone or really anything outside of a week’s supply of malaria meds and a little bit of money hoping that our volunteer would come find us soon. As the bus left, we were surrounded by young kids asking for gifts and money and all trying to touch us. After about an hour, our volunteer tracked us down (probably by the large group of kids around us) and took us back to his town where we stayed for 5 days seeing his projects and getting a better feel for Senegalese life and culture.

After this trip, all of the new volunteers came back to the training center in Thies (the second largest city in Senegal – about a million people – but it feels significantly smaller) for training in language and technical skills as well as seminars on health, security and cultural immersion. We will be here through the first week of November. The training is 60 hours a week and extremely exhausting, but we are almost halfway done with it already.

During this time, we live with a host family. My family is absolutely wonderful and immediately took me in as one of their own. We live in a small compound that has four different buildings – two of the buildings have 2-3 bedrooms, another building is the kitchen and the last building is the bathroom. Since it is so hot everyday and the houses are small ovens (cement walls and tin roofs) we spend most of our time outside in the courtyard between the buildings. For meals, we all eat from one large serving platter. Meals are usually rice or millet based, with some vegetables, fish, and some sort of sauce. My French is improving quickly too so communicating with them is getting much easier. I have five host brothers, two of whom are my age and take me around with them in town to visit their friends. Sometimes, I feel like I’m there show and tell object for their friends, but in general I have a lot of fun with them.

Everyone here is so friendly and whenever I am walking anywhere people call me over to talk to them and tell them what I am doing here. I’m not sure if they understand why I would leave the luxuries of the US for Senegal, but they are excited that I am here and want to share their stories and experiences with me.

I hope you all are well and I promise to write on a more regular basis and post some pictures soon.

Saturday, September 8, 2007

Address

Two days until I leave for Atlanta and and 4 days before I head off to Senegal. During my first three months I will be partaking in a language and technical training in Thies. If you want to send me any packages or letters my address is:

PST Chris Andrews
Corps de la Paix
B.P. 299
Thies, Senegal
West Africa

Thank you for all the phone calls and messages wishing me luck. I will write more once i get to Senegal.

Friday, September 7, 2007

Packing

Hello all,

These past few days have been filled with packing, realizing i forgot something and going to the store to buy it, returning home and repeating. Consequently, all of my stuff is spread throughout the family room as i slowly pack it. A lot of you have asked me what exactly you pack when you are leaving for 27 months so i'll give a short run down of the main things i am bringing. Its surprisingly not a lot of stuff meaning i'll probably be asking for packages real soon.
5 pairs of pants
some t-shirts
4-5 collared shirts
2 pairs of t-shirts
sandals
flip flops
sneakers
running shorts
sweatshirt and fleece
lightweight sleeping bag
laptop
speakers
journal
camera
solar charger (just in case i am somewhere without electricity)
lots of extra batteries
cliff bars, granola bars and other little munchies
and plenty of bug spray and sun screen.

There are plenty of other little things that i can't think of now, but hopefully for the most part this will be all i need.

hope everyone is doing well
love
chris